A soutache is braided trim used to decorate clothing, fabric upholstery or drapery. When worn on a military uniform, it often signifies the wearer's rank. It is also a bookbinder's term for the thin braid applied to the top and bottom of the inside of a book's spine to secure its pages.
A soutache is most commonly braided in a herringbone pattern. Two threads are placed on opposite sides of a cord and, starting with the left thread, it is placed over the middle cord and right thread. Then alternating with the right one, the pattern continues until a braid is formed. This design is called a French herringbone pattern. A Dutch herringbone pattern is when the threads are placed underneath the cord and opposite thread.
The braided trim may also be used to hide a seam in a piece of clothing as well as for decoration. Some modern uses for a soutache braid include covering the hem of a bridal veil or making loop or flower patterns on a piece of fabric. To make a loop pattern, the threads that wrap the cord are unraveled and the cord is pulled down with one hand while the threads are pushed up with the other hand. This is done until a loop is formed. The design may be repeated and then sewn to the fabric by hand or with a sewing machine.
Soutache is a French word thought to have been first used in the mid 1800's. It comes from the Hungarian word sujtas, which means braid used for trimming. Another word for soutache is galloon, which is also French and comes from the 16th century. It is derived from gallonner and means to embellish or adorn with lace.
The threads used to make a soutache come in many colors and are often made of natural fabrics such as silk and wool. Synthetic and semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon may also be used as well as metallic threads of silver or gold. As military styles go in and out of fashion, the decorative braids may be seen adorning jackets and coats as well as epaulets, fabric or metal trim sewn onto a garment's shoulders.
Cotton caftans and tunics often have soutache embroidery as well and have been traditionally worn by people all over the world, including Russia, West Africa and Morocco. Mariachi uniforms, worn by musicians who play the music originating from Jalisco, Mexico, are known for their colorful soutache braided designs as well.